For his Autumn/Winter 2013 menswear show, J.W. Anderson took androgyny to the next level with a combination of clean-cut menswear and feminine detailing. You know how much we like short shorts on boys, and J.W. Anderson did not fail to deliver beautiful shorts on this front. Made in a fabric that appeared to have the qualities of neoprene or chunky wool, the forward thinking designs definitely explored the realm of clothing that can be “borrowed from a man to a woman and from a woman to a man”. Without putting the boys in physical dresses, Anderson managed to toe the line between womenswear and menswear with long tops that were split up from the bottom to create the look of a dress, without actually becoming one.
Clever manipulations with the pattern cutting meant that simple tops incorporated movement and architectural shapes into the design. Designs appeared seamless and flawlessly perfect with smooth edges to garments, free of topstitching and hems. The overall finish was immaculate and can only be described as super clean with no surface details. We saw no buttons, zips or and kind of fastening, with almost oversized wool coats in bright cobalt blue being done up invisibly from the inside.
There were definitely pieces that could feature in every guys wardrobe, from classic tops with signature necklines, to warmer knits and overcoats, all designed to be a clean cut as possible. We particularly liked the colour block sweaters with pop imagery knitted into them including a white picket fence and a large pair of shears; both pullovers were created in monochrome perfection. It was garments such as these that added the extra youthfulness needed to complete the collection.
"J.W. Andersson's AW13 collection was really cool. I like that he didn’t just do your everyday looks – he really went all out, and then he also had some basic looks that were really good and focused on just the shape. Some of it was very slick, and some of it very outlandish. I think he caught people’s eyes’ in both ways" (Timothy Lance Carne (D1 Models)
Photography by Ieva Blaževičiūtė.
Words by Hannah Fickling.