The London Collections: Men do not just mean stalking the runway shows, it also means stalking lots and lots of presentations, checking out the latest collections of fine British menswear design. So we have decided to put together a collection of reviews on some of our favourite presentations from the week. Read on to find out more.
Mr Porter’s presentation featured capsule collections from a hand picked selection of talented London Designers, including Richard Nicoll, Sibling, Katie Eary and Matthew Miller. Quite possibly one of the best mixes of design talent ever. Garments are in fact already available and selling out fast on the Mr Porter website, so make sure to get in there early.
When Cecilie Harris went to visit, she was greeted by a whole room of familiar faces including that of the lovely Aaron Gatward, whose tale of the destruction of Cecilie’s scooter has now become famous in some circles. Also Toby Binge and Jon Dartnell who we have featured previously, as well as the lovely Tom Lander, who we'd happily stalk anywhere for a decent shot or two. With so many wonderful boys present, of course she had to get some interviews.
Above: Jack Lyons and Tom Lander at Select Model Management by Cecilie Harris.
Cecilie's first stop was with Tom Lander at Select Model Management...
Cecilie: That’s Jack Lyons, he’s very good with his eyes. Although, to be fair, you have powerful eyes as well Tom, I have seen them in pictures. Haha! I would like to hear a Fashion Week story; your best one ever, cause you’ve done quite a few Fashion Weeks in your modelling days.
Tom: Which one, in London or Milan?
Cecilie: Any, you can choose.
Tom: Can it be naughty?
Cecilie: Yes, definitely.
Tom: Okay. Well we’re at a clubbing event and my mate got spiked, so I had to carry him out of the club and then all the way through Milan, back to the hotel. Then he ran off and hid in his room for two days.
Cecilie: Aw, thank you for the story Tom.
Tom: And that’s Jack Lyons! Haha (Points to phone box next to him)
Cecilie: That leads me perfectly into my next interview!
Cecilie heads over to Jack Lyons' (Select Model Management) phone booth.
Cecilie: I just heard a naughty story about you from Fashion Week in Milan when you were very drunk.
Jack L: Oh no, no, no, thanks for sharing Tom!
Cecilie: Have you got a Fashion Week story to share right back at him?
Jack L: Unfortunately he is always well behaved, and I can’t manage to catch him off his guard. If it’s in London, it’s a different story, he misbehaves a little more in London, we have a few in London.
Cecilie: I like that you’re either very polite or…?
Jack L: No I’m not, I wish I had something that I could come forth with!
Cecilie: Can you talk me through what you’re wearing?
Jack L: Right now I’m wearing a jacket and matching trousers, with a top from Richard Nicoll.
Cecilie: It’s beautiful!
Cecilie goes past Tom’s phone booth again...
Cecilie: Hey again Tom, I’m off to see Chuck and Jamie now.
Tom: Send my love!
Cecilie heads over to see Chuck and Jamie from FM Models on the other side of the room.
Cecilie: Tom sends his love from his phone box. Would you like me to send a message back?
Chuck and Jamie: Haha! Yeah tell him we love him back.
Cecilie: All right.
Back at the Phone box
Cecilie: Jamie and Chuck send their love.
Tom: Oh fantastic!
Back with Chuck and Jamie
Cecilie: Can you talk me through your outfits today?
Chuck: It’s Katie Eary. I like the t-shirt. The trousers are quite loud but they’re nice.
Cecilie: Has yours got fish on it?
Chuck: Oh yeah, that is fish.
Cecilie: What do you think about that?
Chuck: Yeah I like fish.
Cecilie: Hey Jamie, you’re an FM model as well ‘cause I saw you at the casting?
Cecilie: Can you talk me through your outfit?
Jamie: I’m wearing Richard Nicoll. I like the three colours.
Cecilie: It’s a very beautiful jumper, the colour is good on you. It goes with your eyes.
Jamie: It goes with my eyes, haha saw that one coming (cheeky!)
Cecilie: Am I not the first one to say that?
Jamie: You are definitely the first one to say that, haha!
Above: Aaron Gatward at Select Models, Jack Marcy, Chuck and Jamie Kendrick at FM Models, Toby Binge (Elite), Max Cocking (Select) and Jon Dartnell (FM Models) by Cecilie Harris.
Next Cecilie goes to visit Jon Dartnell at FM Models (you may remember him from the the '12 Faces Of Summer),Toby Binge at Elite who was also featured in 'The 4th Floor' and Max Cocking from Select Model Management.
Cecilie: What are you wearing today?
Jon: This top is Sibling, and this grey top is I believe is also Sibling. It has two tops layered on top of each other. These trousers are YMC.
Cecilie: Okay, and this is Max, you’re wearing a Matthew Miller T-shirt I’m guessing?
Max: Hi! Yeah it’s all Matthew Miller.
Cecilie: Oh wow, is it comfortable?
Max: Yeah it’s very soft and warm, comfortable.
Toby: Soft and warm!? (throws a cute, famous Toby giggle)
Cecilie: Hello Toby, how have you been?
Toby: I’m good thank you, you?
Cecilie: He’s so polite. You’ve been dressed in the school boy outfit and I love that.
Toby: As usual!
Cecilie: What are you wearing?
Toby: Cardigan is by Sibling, not quote sure about the shorts, and the t-shirt is Sibling as well.
Cecilie: I like that, that’s very different from their normal designs. Is this your first show during London Collections Men?
Toby: No I did Kit Neale yesterday as well.
Cecilie: What have you done recently? I haven’t caught up with you in ages?
Toby: I’ve been working, done a few modelling jobs here and there.
Cecilie: Well I’m excited to see you!
Toby: Good to see you too!
Cecilie goes over to see Aaron Gatward and Jack Marcy at Select Model Management.
Cecilie: Can you talk us through the outfit you’re wearing?
Aaron: This is Matthew Miller. Black shirt, leather shorts, white socks, white shoes.
Cecilie: I like the shiny bit covering the pocket. Is this your first London Collections Men?
Aaron: Yes, and tomorrow I’ve got a Shaun Samson show.
Cecilie: Good, well you look very fabulous.
Aaron: Thank you very much.
Cecilie: My ruined scooter is still in the hallway.
Aaron: Oh I apologise! Sorry about that haha. Apparently quite a lot of people know about the scooter now.
Cecilie: Yeah I’ve been spreading it around haha
Aaron: Yeah I was speaking to a guy at casting and he said he had done a shoot with you.
Cecilie: Everyone sees the ruined scooter in my hallway.
Aaron: So I was just like yeah I’m the guy who broke the scooter. And he was like “oh it was you, aw yeah!”
Cecilie: Everyone is like oh you’ve got an, oh it’s broken. Yeah that was Aaron. Jack did you know that he broke my scooter?
Aaron: What like an actual motorbike scooter?
Cecilie: No just a little one, what do you think about that?
Jack: I think it was very inconsiderate. Haha, well it could have been an accident.
Aaron: I was showing off. I was doing a trick!
Cecilie: Can you talk me through your outfit?
Jack: This is a Katie Eary number. I just discovered that its fish, pointed out by Aaron, with some black jeans.
Cecilie: Good, have you read up about Katie Eary’s collection and what it is about so you can tell me?
Jack: I haven’t read up about the latest collection… I’m sorry Katie. (He looks a bit guilty) Yeah, but I like it.
Cecilie: We have a shoot with you coming out soon that you did with Georgie Wileman, can you tell us about that?
Jack: That was really cool. It was in a cool, old fashioned flat. They had me in curtains. We did shots in a couple of rooms, upstairs, downstairs, kitchen, outside. It was good fun.
Cecilie: What should people expect?
Cecilie: No mattresses?
Jack: No when I say curtains I mean… (Motions to his hair… 90s style!)
Cecilie: Oh hair? Boy band style?
Jack: Yeah boy band style, definitely a new look for me.
Cecilie: All right, has anyone got a London Collections: Men story?
Aaron: I just hope I don’t trip over tomorrow. It’s my first show so as long as I don’t trip over I’ll be happy!
Cecilie: Well I wish you luck!
The Qasimi Homme presentation was in a way, both an artistic installation as much as it was one of mens fashion. Set in a clean white space up a rickety staircase through a door just off an alley, we had no idea what to expect… but what we found can only be described as beautiful. The cutting of the clothes was stunning, while the fabrics used were stunning and rich to the eye with multiple textures. The details on the garments were perfect and included zipped cuffs on sleeves and padded pockets.
Meanwhile the styling of the boys was on a whole other level. Bright theatrical lights silhouetted their figures against the white walls, highlighting the shapes created by the garments, while their hair was fluidly slicked across their faces, contrasting with the clean cut designs. We loved it all. It was beautiful.
Above right: Conor Doherty at Elite Models by Ieva Blazeviciute.
Mr Hare proved that men’s shoes can be beautifully classic, cool and ultimately super wearable all at the same time. He experimentations with colour and fabrics meant that any pair of his shoes would be able to double the statement item in a guys wardrobe as well as the staple. Job well done we think. Plus we’re hoping that they make boys just as good dancers as the guys from his presentation.
PS. If prompted, the wonderful Mr Hare himself is not opposed to dishing out a great hug.
A La Disposition
A La disposition, a label usually associated with womenswear design, showed us a cool variation from your usual menswear for its Autumn/Winter 13 collection. We saw contrasting fabrics and textures alongside very three-dimensional cutting on collars and trousers. We loved the mix of chunky knit type materials alongside jackets and bottoms that almost looked quilted. There was a focus on volume without taking it too far, which worked perfectly with the colour palette of autumnal and wintery browns and creams.
Above: Harry Uzoka at Premier Models by Cecilie Harris.
Photography by Cecilie Harris & Ieva Blazeviciute.
Words by Hannah Fickling.