LFWM: Oliver Spencer AW17

8 January 2017

Words Jonny Clowes
Photographer Cleo Glover

Love is ageless. Music is ageless. Maturity is ageless.

We are told that with age comes a developed sense of slowing down. Somewhere along the way, you are expected to forget spontaneity and accept that passions are for the past. Old and new, old and young – they’re opposites that are pushed further and further apart, eyeing each other suspiciously from across the vast expanse of time. Oliver Spencer is wiser than that.

An archetype of understated deconstruction, teasing convention, his ‘Tough Love’ show connects audience and models alike through the mutual desire of music and fashion. Along to nostalgic 80s pop, boys familiar to BBG – Francesco Cuizza, Nicholas Sinclair, Niall Underwood – walk with men of all stances in the new traditions of a modern gentleman. Oliver’s collection is as wearable as ever, and as humble as the designer’s modest wave at the end of the show. The runway is brushed with a palette of muted colours - dusty pinks, powder blues, elegant greys - and his signature cropped trousers create silhouettes true to the brand’s identity. Proving his expertise at layering, the models are styled with turtle-necks under overcoats while classic British patterns – herringbone, tartan, pinstripes – are paired with corduroy and linen.

The models parade their sensible practicality and new-found maturity with umbrellas in hand and overcoats at the ready, but look a little closer and you can glimpse the twinkle of a single silver hoop dangling from their ears – a subtle rebellion, that souvenir from youth that you’re just not ready to give up. Once a boy, always a boy.

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