LFWM: Matthew Miller AW17

8 January 2017

Words Jonny Clowes
Photographer Maud Maillard

‘Nothing is certain except the politics of unease and suspicion.’

Time stretches between season and season. A lot can happen. For the past six months, day after day, we have been haunted by dread – a different nightmare in a different city. It is no wonder that Matthew Miller’s AW17 show took a political stance. A peaceful protest against a silent destroyer: fear.

Soothed by beautifully tranquil music, he initially created a calming atmosphere, but it was soon disturbed by the anxiety that lies within us all. A voice, somehow both comforting and disconcerting, poetically spoke of worry, as we watched the models pace the catwalk. Adorned in black, white and granite, they seemed content, but the designer’s ever-vigilant attention to detail revealed a panic that lurked beneath the surface – vertical blood-red stripes cut down the model’s faces and dripped from their eyes. They marched in ‘uniforms for the disenchanted, disenfranchised and disengaged’. With a lamb-like innocence (protected in Yorkshire wool and Italian shearling), they were walking towards the slaughter.

Minimal simplicity fought with cutting danger. The subtle shapes of staples - the car coat, the leather jacket – were sliced with threat as harness packs and straps evoked extremist danger. Both tense and at ease, packing half a year into ten minutes, the nuanced mix of soft and sharp was draining. But stillness trumps madness. Closing the show, the models stopped their protest, defiant and tranquil, holding banners emblazoned with capital FEAR. As the boys stood together as a generation, a camaraderie of light began to emerge in the darkness - the only thing to fear is fear itself.

Matthew Miller12
Matthew Miller22
Matthew Miller32
Matthew Miller43
Matthew Miller52
Matthew Miller63
Matthew Miller74
Matthew Miller82
Matthew Miller92
Follow us on Instagram @boysbygirls
View View View @nickhargrove and Hedvig connect over moody European roots (we blame the weather!), humans' innate longing for belonging, and Nick's journey... View @nickhargrove on feeling connectedSee link in bio for the full feature.Interview @hedvigwerner
View Gigi captures ‘Charmed’ star @nickhargrove in a new exclusive feature. See link in bio for the full feature. Photography @ggphotographyofficial... View Turn down the TV so it doesn’t clash with the sounds of bodies in sync. All in, don’t hold anything... View Soft cotton bedsheets smooth and caress weary limbs. Come rain or shine, the airy fabrics welcome their tenant home. ... View Lucy found Tom and Francesc to be incredibly comfortable both in front of each other and the camera while being... View Ecstasy from dusk to dawn when in each other’s company. Pure elation arising from the simplicity of fingers running down... View This series was inspired around Lucy being in love herself and the overwhelming feelings of falling in love. She wanted... View Engulfed in each other, problems and politics blur into background noise of a soundtrack delightfully ignored. . . Photography by... View A bed fit for kings hosts the sincerest intimacies. Eye to eye. Chest to chest. Lips to lips. Honesties slip... View Between veins and nails lie the beauty of the details. Mental notes remember the way they reach out, how they... View This week’s exclusive Instagram editorial is ‘The Touch’ by Lucy Jarvis. Lucy photographs her close friend Tom and his partner... View The threads they’re clad in too - styled by Sara Grižon - holding the human, keeping it safe, showing us... View Doesn’t it make the air lighter, to see how easy they breathe together? Same lungs, same heart, same blood -... View We can watch the Slovenian @zavbibrothers cultivate this forest with their memories, scattering their present onto the overgrown paths. We... View Motion and stasis, the undergrowth and the sky - a sense of balance meted out to brighten life’s lessons. Even... View Boyhood is a kingdom of sticks huddled in leafmould, defying autumn. See link in bio for the full feature. Talent... View Veronika Malačič captures Slovenian brothers and musicians, @zavbibrothers in a series of black and white frames, accompanied along with a...