Christopher Raeburn AW17

9 January 2017

Words Jonny Clowes
Photography Caoimhe Hahn

Practicality and Fashion: sworn enemies in the eyes of the media. Videos show models toppling over their 9-inch heels and images laugh at avant-garde headpieces that sacrifice the wearer’s vision. But practicality is starting to separate menswear from those stereotypical scoffs at fashion. More and more high fashion designers are taking on the newfound rationality that has seen the recent surge in popularity of mountaineering brands such as North Face, Berghaus and Patagonia.

Christopher Raeburn combines service and sustainability to create a collection that blows holes (literally) in the apparent choice we have to make – to look good or to feel good. For AW17, Christopher steps up to his reputation as a collaborative force when it comes to accessories, working with Eastpak for functional rucksacks, and Clarks to help the models march with purpose in high top boots. Strapped in field jackets, anoraks and waterproof materials, his men are sheltered – even their backpacks are wearing their neon protective covers.

The structure and formality of the military is deconstructed and the utilitarian collection has a sense of being on the brink of destruction. With the tagline ‘Cut ‘N Shut’, Christopher puzzles together shapes with a DIY disconnection that rivals Dominic Harwood’s disjointed soundtrack. Camo fights with fluro as explosions of turquoise and neon green peeks through holes in the low-key hues of navy, grey and black – does the khaki army want to be seen or not? Either way, we certainly want to see more of them.

Christopher Raeburn_1
Christopher Raeburn_2
Christopher Raeburn_3
Christopher Raeburn_4
Christopher Raeburn_5
Christopher Raeburn_6
Christopher Raeburn_7
Christopher Raeburn_8
Christopher Raeburn_9
Christopher Raeburn_10
Christopher Raeburn_11
Christopher Raeburn_12
Follow us on Instagram @boysbygirls
View Clarity of vision, sweeter than a caged smile. The Book of Happiness brings together @_farhaannnn_ and @timgnk_ in this colourful... View What would a smile be if we caged it? Sour. Sweetness quickly rots when it can’t dance and a tooth’s... View ‘Try to hold it in your hands and watch it slip away like water from your palms - too fast... View In collaboration with @aceandtate, photographer and editor @cecilieharris presents you with the key to unlock joy: The Book of Happiness... View Close your eyes and breathe it in. Closer to ‘glede’ with every new frame. The Book of Happiness: an exclusive... View Senses delight in a purple explosion as we transport you across fields of endless lavender with an exclusive @aceandtate collaboration... View Growing up as a female, @krowwithak walked a fine line between self-love and self-hate. Now, he embraces himself wholly and... View ‘One of my favourite moments was the first time I was able to use the men’s washroom. I was always... View In a homely studio in London, we are taken down @krowwithak ’s road to ‘glede’, and learn that beauty can... View For model @krowwithak , Cosplay and music are the guiding lights during times of darkness. Discover the beauty in both... View It’s a name I chose for myself when I was 12 years old. It came to me one day when... View @krowwithak found the confidence to transition after immersing himself in the Cosplay community. @cecilieharris talks to the model about his... View Running free amongst the open fields, sheep and stunning views, memories of childhood flood the senses as we find cover... View ‘Having previously told me about how he loved to roam freely in nature as a kid, letting him run free... View Closer to the ocean, yet not quite there. A secret hideout - that kind of hideout we all need sometimes... View Cecilie Harris captures cover boy Louis Baines for BBG Issue 15. A boy that pulls at the human strings in... View Allowing ourselves to escape sometimes is key to our happiness. In our fashion cover story with @louis.baines , we rediscover... View ‘I didn’t see the Dylan I see now or really come into myself until I was 23. I hid everything... View ‘I think you should put some pressure on yourself in leaving behind a good legacy. I think you owe it...