LFWM: Xander Zhou AW17

6 March 2019
Japanese adult movies, Kung fu shoes and three-dimensional silhouettes. Who else could it be but Xander Zhou? The boys emerged like zombies, with drenched hair and the angst of youth zoning through their walks. The sound of dripping water echoed through the space, overlaid with the voice of a mad-professor. The mood was dirty and sinister - but undeniably beautiful.
Oriental futurism burned through each look; as traditional utilitarian shapes were distorted with kimono-style sleeves and a little mid-rift exposure - as the designer said himself, “you’d better work on those abs!”. Referencing his heritage, Mao suits were modernised with oversized v-necks in leather and suede that fell off the shoulder in a journey of personal discovery and Asian identity today.
The uniform of manhood was unravelled with disheveled shirts and ties, and trench coats repainted in distressed denim. Boxy cuts and severe geometry were the secret weapon, morphing the ordinary into a techno-induced dream. A multitude of reference points fell together organically, sharing a tale of a boy’s discovery of himself as he jumps the fence into adulthood.
Glittering turtlenecks spilt out over sharp, coffee-tinted suedes in exaggerated forms; in a look ready for the ski-slopes of the future. Drifting through the spacey sea of crisp white hues, navy and browns were violent shades of scarlet and royal blue. Once again, his clothing glides through the curves of the mind; meeting masculinity with a refreshing surrealism.

Words by Matthew Regan.
Photography by Cleo Glover.

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