Strike the violins; the first show of SS18 has begun. Tourne de Transmission’s LFWM debut opened with classical music that soothed our twitching thumbs and settled the fashion week nerves that had already started stirring within. Replacing chaos with calm, designer Graeme Gaughan eased us into the weekend with a defiant declaration against the idea that fashion is superficial; the words of the press release - ‘there is a layer, a veneer on life that we are not meant to see through’ – were carried through into the collection as the styling was dominated by layering and uncovered meaning.
We peeked through transparent panels to the colours beneath as sparks of orange pushed through the quiet hues of beige, grey and white. Orange was the standout colour of the collection (even BBG boy Arran Horton’s hair was dyed orange) and its vibrancy broke the initial calm of the show. An unease lurking just underneath the surface. The nineties skater scene reared its head in the form of hoodies and oversizing (socks paired with sandals, longer socks paired with skater shoes and baggy trousers), but once again, we weren’t allowed to wallow in this comfort for long as a closer look exposed gritty details that undermined the peace. Soft fabrics cut with raw edges. Fresh tattoos still wrapped in see-through cling film.
Maybe we were too naïve to relax. Maybe the chaos hadn’t been replaced, but just concealed. With the tagline ‘Lies That Bind’ proving poignant at the end of an intense election week, TDT’s show was a socially observant collection with a subtle political agenda – a theme that we’re expecting to come back more than once this season. For us, the show was a disconcerting reminder to reveal the truth beneath the veneers that disguise it. For creative director Graeme Gaughan, it was an impressive and in-depth opening statement. A strong and stable start.
Words by Jonny Clowes.
Photography by Caoimhe Hahn.