Friends of friends – risky business. Your friend introduces you to their friend and then you’re expected to get on. You might like that friend and if so, they steadily become yours too. On the other hand, you might not be so keen on the new addition to your already-perfectly-fine-thank-you-very-much twosome. “How can Friend 1 like Friend 2?” you think as you resentfully fiddle with your frayed matching bracelet.
Thankfully, London Fashion Week Men’s relationship with GQ China has introduced us to stunning and striking collections over the last few seasons by Chinese menswear designers such as Sean Suen and Sankuanz. And this season it’s no different; GQ China presents Pronounce (the product of Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, graduates of Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion) and we are anything but resentful. Welcome new friend.
Termed ‘poetic workwear’, the brand’s SS18 collection was characterised by clunky boots, surplus fabric and oversized pockets. Thick, adjustable straps alluded to the straightjacket, while the penetrating soundtrack created by Eli Osheyack added to the show’s sinister, asylum-like atmosphere. Intense and brutal. Sunflower yellow and lilac stood out amongst the muted palette of black, white and brown - each colour came in blocks and each outfit kept to the strict rules of the shade. The looks were minimal and ‘anti-decorative’, but we were caught by Stacey Huang’s intriguing ear jewellery. Impressed yet undeniably intimidated, we left the show. A new comrade, yes, but one to keep an eye on.
Photography by Caoimhe Hahn.
Words by Jonny Clowes.