After everything that London has been through in the past few months, it certainly deserves a show like Oliver Spencer
. SS18 was a tribute to the capital that became explicit in the final parade (all the models sported tees with ‘Love Town’ emblazoned across their chests before gathering together in communal celebration) and drove the thought behind the collection. London’s multiculturalism is what makes this city great and it was acknowledged by the diversity of the models; a diversity that has become a key feature of OS’s shows. The brand’s casting was as loyal as ever with familiar faces walking the runway, boys and men of all stances, ages and races.
And what do we Londoners love to talk about more than anything in the world? The weather, of course. The hues ranged from cool blues to drizzly greys as swift as our unpredictable skies, and Oliver’s British Spring/Summer was appropriately equipped with raincoats and shorts, parkas and sunnies. Checks overtook stripes in the race towards summertime, as the collection hinted towards the gingham picnic rug in our nostalgic sunny daydreams. However, for all its London-ness (someone contact the dictionary about making this a word), the clothes had a distinct Riviera vibe that was enhanced by loose linens, soft suedes and a casual chambray or two. Lightweight bomber jackets, collarless blazers, and relaxed battle jackets were seen in navy, tan and dusty pink and the signature tailoring of Oliver’s tapered trousers was whisked away on holiday as cuffs were rolled up to reveal a noticeable lack of socks. You have to respect the optimism.
The show ended and we found ourselves back in London, succumbed to the irresistible pull of the city and the attractive lure of the more-than-wearable designs. With his ever-evolving adaptation of traditional suiting and recent developments into a ‘Buy Now’ option, the British designer seems to be pretty good at blue-sky-thinking. For a city where the blue sky is a luxury, London’s own open-mindedness certainly deserves celebration. Cue smug nod.
Words by Jonny Clowes.
Photography Aylen Torres.