LFWM: Berthold SS18

6 March 2019

Deafening whistles accompanied by tweeting birds was how Berthold SS18 collection chose to welcome us. Stark contrasting sounds reverberated throughout the room, while flashing lights blinded our eyes. The music was ominous disclosing to prepare for something intense, something severe.

Models united in their troops in preparation of war - marching down the runway to the beat of tribal drums. Covered in dark draping coats that engulfed the hands. Oversized and overbearing, but with a notion of cool. This was it now – innocent faces with a false sense of confidence passing us by. A betrayal of youth in a sense, however, amongst a background of black, youthfulness sprang through. The boys were clothed in short baggy shorts and blazing bits of golden yellows alongside bright blues and sunset reds – appealing to youth’s optimism and brightness. Primary colours stretched out in front of us and embraced the catwalk. Crisp fabrics extended towards the neck and acted as protection from the rain, the wind or the sun. Berthold was prepared for any and all climates.

The show provided a glimpse into what Raimund Berthold refers to as “the tragedy of radicalisation to the joy of tribal belonging” - inspiration deriving from photographs of child soldiers in Uganda and Sierra Leone. “A boy of about 14 stares right into the lens, chewing a cigarette with an AK-47 slung over his shoulder; the thick epaulets and fat cuffs of his fatigue betray his adult role”. A bold collection came to life, exhibiting clothing that showcased youthful hardship in decorous shapes. From day to day, shifting weathers and attitudes leave you unready for unforeseeable scenarios. Everywhere is a possible war zone, but at least now there’s Berthold to keep us prepared.

Words by Ellen Coyle.
Photography by Aylen Torres.

Berthold_Aylen Torres_11
Berthold_more
Berthold_Aylen Torres_21
Berthold_Aylen Torres_31
Berthold_Aylen Torres_42
Berthold_Aylen Torres_51
Berthold_Aylen Torres_62
Berthold_Aylen Torres_71
Berthold_Aylen Torres_82
Berthold_Aylen Torres_92
Follow us on Instagram @boysbygirls
View “My mind works so much better in nature. It flows better. When I was young, I used to write poetry... View Young actor @jackdgrazer has two major movies this year; comedic superhero flick Shazam!, which is in cinemas 5th April, and... View Supported by a backdrop of Pipe and Brick, the performers take a final bow. . . Photography by @messinaphotos Fashion... View Micromovements give the game away; fake smiles don’t reach the eyes. Reading faces to calculate an oppositional move, the villain... View Casting shadows across the stage, shapes and silhouettes rise and fall. . . Photography by @messinaphotos Fashion by @rcolestevens Model... View Act II begins with a midday hush. The show goes on to hit the hero’s redemption and save the day... View Stylist Cole Stevens dresses Azure to steal the show on the streets. The sunny city serves as the audience to... View Curtains close on Act I and the actors exit stage left. Backstage the chaos rules as loud as a Monday... View Masked by costumes, the spotlight highlights our truths. . . Photography by @messinaphotos Fashion by @rcolestevens Model @azu_figgy at @heffnermanagement... View Observing movements from between a smile and a frown. If the brick could whisper and the tarmac could murmur, what... View This week’s exclusive Instagram editorial is ‘Pipe & Brick’ featuring model Azure Figueroa at Heffner Management. Photographer Allegra Messina shoots... View View “...we are all equal in the end. View You may recognise @harryhains from 'American Horror Story: Hotel' as well as upcoming roles in the action feature ‘Chase' and... View It is a rare and beautiful thing to live in alignment with your true purpose. Minutes into conversation with musician... View @harryhains / @theantiboy on gender: View @harryhains has a unique awareness of what it means to be human - which is just that: human. Not a... View Coated in a fine layer of sand, tired legs rest. Remnants of sand still stuck to swim shorts that are... View Salty skin and hair begin to dry. Gooseflesh prickling on the skin with faint breezes drawn with every wave greeting... View The smell of wax mixed with sea salt and burning wood from beach fires are caught in the wind. Paddling...