LCM: YMC AW16

6 March 2019

It started with the graphic emblem of the psychedelic and the title ‘Parallelogram’. A symbol of the continuity of raw energy - and most importantly attitude, two opposite angles at equal. This core message of YMC this season followed through into the aquatic echoes and piercing sounds that erupted into the show space - taking you back into the pulsating scenes of a dusky underground club. Starting with the tuning of a guitar, the raw energy and the pure boundary pushing mentality of YMC, translated too, into Fraser Moss and Jimmy Collins reworked designs.You must create, therefore you must continue to push, to grow and to compose.

What followed was a faultless composition of adoption and re-appropriation of attitude and energy, of musical references into timeless yet high-quality wearable staples for the modern man. Jeans were distressed, ripped and shredded. Bags came in the form of totes and rucksacks, while various forms of stripes featured heavily on jackets, shirts and scarves. Details a plenty included cropped wide skate trousers, fringed donkey jackets, wedged clogs, biker-inspired Chelsea Boots and leather jackets featuring in pure black, brown and deep seaweed green. Further cross detailing work could be seen on the back of jackets. Fabrics - key to YMC, included black wool seersucker, charcoal-tasselled wool and wood grain nylons from Japan and Italy. With materials and ideas re-worked into the wood grain / bark printed shirts.

The palette predominately dark; black, charcoal, navy, deep greens and tan, however hints of purple and dusky pink were nevertheless highlighted in layered t-shirts and detailing on scarves, contrasting against the deeper layers of dark leathers, sweeping eerie cloak like jackets and simple polo necks. Hair too was very important - seemingly the longer the better. Looks included specially flicked ends and low slung ponytails, placed perfectly under an array of wide-beamed and fedora hats. Some of our favourite Boys By Girls boys made an appearance, including Harry Curran (issue 6), Sam Toye, Jazz Jamieson (all AMCK), as well as Mees Visser (Elite London) from our Boys To Watch: London feature.

Sometimes it’s good to trust those opposite angles in life. You must create - therefore, you must first see.

Words by Rosie Williams.
Photograhs by Cleo Glover.

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