Oliver Spencer’s latest inspiration came from his favourite house - Casa Malaparte – where, as the press release revealed, ‘the natural rugged coastline is contrasted by clean modernist lines creating a harmonious relationship’.
Evoking this contradiction, the collection (in typical Oliver Spencer style), softened structured tailoring into relaxed Riviera shapes; curved borders and cuffed trousers. Transported to a place where collars are merely a sweaty inconvenience, pieces such as the henley and the cardigan led the way for altered classics such as the ecru suit – sans collare. The Mediterranean-inspired collection also said arrivederci to socks, exposing the ankle in the true Italian way, whilst acknowledging the trans-seasonal British weather by completing practical bombers and windbreakers with loose shorts in matching fabrics.
A selection of perfectly jawlined boys hit the runway showcasing natural, rugged textures – suede slip on shoes complimented the staple suede jacket – were set against soft and subtle lux cottons, silks, linen, merino and nylon to enforce the conflict that invaded and pervaded the collection. With a pacified palette of striped autumnal colours (navy, maroon and grey) offset by calming pastel checks, the neutral and wearable tones blurred the distinction between two worlds – rugged coast vs. modernist architecture, resort style vs. work attire.
In a personal and delicate presentation, the collection was a celebration of transition. As we move from season to season, the notion of transition feels nicely familiar in the Boys by Girls world, often focusing on the transition from one thing to another. The boy becomes a man.
Words by Jonny Clowes.
Photography by Maud Maillard.