Collars up! Oliver Spencer is notorious for bringing the party to LCM, with his musical tribes making an appearance each season. And this season was no exception as the designer sent us dancing into aw15. The show was an ode to creativity and diversity, with interesting shapes mixed with playful textures from Spencer. Lit against the luminous catwalk of the Topman Show Space, the suede bomber jackets, matching trousers and of course the signature Oliver Spencer shirt, made us yearn for the days of autumn/winter 2015 to fall upon us.
As the models bobbed down the catwalk to the Easter-European sounds of ‘The Turbans’, which Oliver reveals more about in our interview with him (below). The audience were seized with energy from not just the music, but Spencer’s contemporary, yet luxuriously polished designs. The colour palette including charcoals, greys and creams mixed with khaki and injections of striking crimson.
Drawing inspiration from British sculptor, David Nash, this artistic influence unfolded through the hard silhouettes in sleek fabrics, as well as clean lines and details. This inspiration also spread into the variety of fabrics, textures and tones at play - all taking influence from natural environments. Floral patterns too were introduced into the aw15 collection through the matching jackets and trousers. After all, who said florals were just for spring?
Audience members were left spoilt for choice, presented with an abundance of key AW15 looks; bomber jackets in black, khaki and floral print, striped and red shirts (collars up guys), mac and pea coats, leather shoes and accessories (made in England), as well as fedora hats, and a collection of fabrics; alpaca, recycled cashmere and super fine lambswool.
Our favourite look from Oliver Spencer? Definitely the black bomber and those matching dark shades, super super cool. Or perhaps the five-yarn lambswool over-sized roll neck, we just can’t choose!
An Interview with Oliver Spencer
Last season you drew inspiration from South America. Did you venture to a different part of the world for this collection?
Not at all, actually. I turned to David Nash. He's a sculptor, a painter, an artist. I look to English artists who I feel a lot of affinity with.
How do you think live performance adds to a catwalk show?
Huge, the whole demographic for it. I'm not interested in sending out "boom boom" music. I want a performance, I want atmosphere, I want feeling.
What made you choose this band in particular?
I wanted the rough with the smooth. I wanted gypsies with clean, interesting fabrications. That's basically our whole feeling behind the show.
What was your favourite part of designing this collection?
Doing the alpaca, I love those coats.
What kind of man do you envision wearing your brand?
We go for a 25 year old to a 75 year old. They're just all eclectic individuals.
And that is so clear throughout your casting as well!
Photography by Sophie Mayanne.
Words by Rosie Williams.
Interview by Justine Hyde-Mobbs.