"I never saw beauty as being something that was a physical object. I fundamentally see beauty as being a moment in time, a fleeting feeling, a scar, a memory, an experience, a sense of freedom". - Matthew Miller
Set to the soporific sounds of Himmelsrandt, Matthew Miller's show softly conjured not merely a showcase of designs, but an atmospheric dreamscape for the SS17 season. Titled 'Tempest', the show alluded to the poetics of Shakespeare - 'We are such stuff as dreams are made of, and our little life is rounded with a sleep' - to grasp for transient beauty and momentary reality.
The collection was a contradiction - innocenct struggles with subtle hints of rebellion, as simple cuts were politicised by a mass of badges and double denim dyed with John Constable's 'A Study of Clouds 1871'. Matthew Miller explored the delicate fragility of rebellion by using both spiky models and faces of boyish naivety (whose tender femininity is enhanced by female models). Matching this contrast was a weave of weightless fabrics - viscose, linen, crepe - resting on heavier punk references; from leather biker jackets and skinheads to banners reading 'Megasonic Teenage Warhead' safety-pinned to the back of the garments. Fluid, loose-fitted pieces - the Kimono, the oversized cardigan, the deconstructed tuxedo - carried a running checkerboard pattern, almost invisible amongst the sea of blues flowing alongside natural off-whites.
There was a calming tranquility wafting down the runway with the gentle movement of the designs and the warm lighting that was easy to get wonderfully lost in whilst you took in the stunning designs of Matthew's new collection. An air of sophistication, as we were left with one question lingering in the air - what is beauty? Intangible.
Words by Jonny Clowes.
Photography by Maud Maillard.