Matthew Miller is a show that everyone wants in on, and we get it. The expectations are high, the excitement reaches feverish levels and everyone waits with baited breath to see what the passionate and genius designer will come up with this time. The show starts as lights come on through the building one by one in time to a fast and deep beat. There’s a ripple effect caused by this, as if Miller is revealing the stage to us for the first time, inviting us to see it with new and fresh eyes. This isn’t just a catwalk any more, it’s a stage for protest. Miller sites ‘Conform’, ‘Control’ and ‘Restrict’ as the words that form the backbone of his SS16 collection as he channels his frustrations with the “red tape and systems that enforce this uniquely modern restraint”.
The tones are all neutral for Miller's collection, but it’s marked how he pairs these with classic shapes in juxtaposition to scruffy and creased fabrics. The collection is reminiscent of a man who’s come to the end of the line with his tolerance for the working world and rather than change he has decided to party, and in turn sleep, in his suit. The clothes have a rebellious edge to them, as if they’re conforming, but only in their own very special way. They’ll fit into your box, but only as awkwardly as possible.
As ever, Miller had a few female models grace the catwalk. Miller's play on androgyny for the season as a whole meant that this inclusion of female models ensured a real flow to this theme. Girls in black leather jackets and boys in skirts were parts of the collection, but only as accents to the larger picture.
Words by India Opie Meres.
Photography by Sophie Mayanne.