In an industrial, whitewashed room full of monochrome critics, pale chipped pillars loomed over an illuminous runway. The dismal weather outside saw an impressive stream of people pouring into the venue like rain in the drains outside. All were in the same place for the same thing: Matthew Miller Autumn/Winter 2016.
If past collections have taught us anything, it’s that Mr Miller is influenced by current world topics and politics. Post war soldiers and over-saturated sportswear have been seen in the past, but this season he brings an interpretation of the new filthy rich generation. They are vulgar and do not appreciate true beauty.
Lights. As bright as the morning after a heavy night out made way for the awaited ‘nouveau riche’. Smashing Pumpkins gave way to Jack Mather (Premier Models); a bouncing head of curls in an all black compilation. What started as stripes developed into pleats and leather belts giving a total utilitarian vibe, Matthew Miller soon came through strong and hard with armbands in hand-painted oil on canvas (cue the medieval references) and shredded velvet dragging the fabric back to relevance. From the Far East (of East London that is), Riina O was in charge of accessories. Hand stitched leather gloves unite traditional techniques with modern technological advances, while Maine’s GH Bass designed the smart penny loafers worn by all. They brought the look together creating the uniform of tomorrow in just twenty minutes.
Beautiful, almost studious perfectly cast faces let the garments do the talking with the likes of Simon Kuzmickas (Established Models) featured in Issue 9 "Growing Sideways), as well as Ben Rees (AMCK Models) on the familiar faces list. Bjork left the audience compelled in a bubble of Miller magic, as the final walk graced the catwalk. Last thoughts? Artistry, colour and layers giving us a clear direction for Autumn/Winter 2016.
Words by Savannah Liu.
Photographs by Cleo Glover.