Boys, boys, buoys. It was like lying by the seaside with basey beats reverberating your peach ice tea and bright light piercing through your eyelids. The Katie Eary SS17 show took us on a vacation far, far away from a ‘lads holiday’.
Netting tangled with buoys dissected the runway; a set that visualised the ‘sparkling barrier separating politicians from the unwashed public’. Class was a key issue of exploration in the collection, as the working seamen marched in fur-cuffed coats reminiscent of the Thatcher epoch. Proletariat pieces such as the hoodie and the string vest, imitating the fishing net, were refined by Katie’s use of lux materials and layered with silk gowns, striped cashmere jumpers and billowing shirts. Luxury silks, smooth on the surface, were printed with predator fish - as the foreboding barracudas bounced on the buoyant fabrics. Nothing was tight, nothing was restricted, the pieces were as free and flowing as the open sea.
However, this sense of loose freedom was touched with an ominous splash of danger, as the sophisticated fishermen casually swayed down the catwalk in their Ellesse pool sliders - confident amidst a wash of salmon pinks and sea-blue hues. Submerged in Californian relaxation and weekend refinery, the wine-dark sea threatened both the models and spectators, ready to drown us in the inescapable net of class division.
Smooth on the surface, disturbed in the depths.
Words by Jonny Clowes.
Photographs by Cleo Glover.