The BFC is beautifuly minimal. Just like a canvas, the whole building is presented as a minimalistic space in which the designers can lay out their art work for the world to see, sending out models like paint splashes across the room in contrast to the stark white runway. One of the best examples of this is James Long. His vast and brilliant range of patterns and colour makes for an explosive sensory experience, one that hits you at every angle. Standing out is an important aspect of Long’s work. Expressing and performing in the clothes he designs is a key element of his creative process.
"I was looking at people who are so natural in their clothing, they think they're blending in, but they're totally not. There's a real freedom to it." - James Long
James Long has a genius way of making his refreshing designs look like they have been around for years, and has a way of creating chaos in such an orderly fashion. Jeans fray just above the ankle, shirts come ruffled and layered one over the other. Paisley and chinoisierie prints clash beautifully in palettes of deep purples milky greys and muted pastels. The clothes are wearable and convenient, combining sport inspired shapes with delicate fabrics. Dinner jackets come in lightweight camp nylon, and gym shorts end just above the knee. Pinstripes and patchwork are prominent as ever throughout the collection.
The designer's SS16 is an explosion of colour and pattern but in the best possible way. He manages to find coherency in the most extreme of places, clashing wildly but with a beautiful simplicity.
Words Justine Hyde-Mobbs.
Photography Maud Maillard.