LCM: Christopher Raeburn AW16

6 March 2019

Distant echoes ring. Tidal sounds of the unknown. Tuning in and out. Rattles and crashes leave us disturbed. Shook up through the tunnels of wind. Until animal footsteps and the clapping of horseshoes are heard from afar. A certain familiarity is welcomed. A shift in pure energy of new depths. Bells ring and we’re set to go. Explore at the ready.

Opening this seasons show we were greeted to Christopher Raeburn’s exploration of the modern menswear scape - a feature forever present in his work as Raeburn does it so everlastingly well. This time his focus turned to Mongolia, focusing the lens on one of the truly last wild places on Earth. This inspiration was reimagined into tactile textures of sustainability and glorious colours of rich hues and multi tones. Mutli tones that took form in the textures of patchwork parka jackets.

Re imagining military materials into menswear, protective rubber suits and shredded snow camouflage ponchos were reconstructed into outerwear silhouettes of a multitude of coat and jackets. Specifically parkas and anoraks created from Olive raindrop camouflage covers. At the forefront of this seasons delivery was the iconic mascot - the snow leopard - also one of the most endeared species on the planet. Represented and adorned onto knitted sweaters through both graphic prints and fine illustrations.

Further elements of the show included; Winter footwear in collaboration with Clark and snow boots with velcro fastenings fit for any distant explorer, caps, palm tree shirt detailing, front pocket embroidery, black buttoned lined jackets contrasting to the body of red duffle coats, as well as sleek shearling lined bags in charcoal, grey and off white. Knitwear was important too, profiled in scarves that towed across the show spaces floor lined blank canvas, as well as core red cable knitwear in notably masculine shapes. Where there is the unknown in depths of afar, there is always risk. From plain sights of safety - risk will always win.

Words by Rosie Williams
Photographs by Vic Lentaigne

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